Harlem Brewing Company’s Sugar Hill Golden Ale dates back to 17th century Africa where tribes brewed a version of the delicious historic ale, passing the well-preserved recipe from generation to generation. In the early 17th century, the recipe found it’s way to America where it continued to live on in clandestine production. In recent history, the popularity of Sugar Hill Golden Ale is linked largely to the Harlem Renaissance, an exploration of urban cultural and social thought booming in northern Manhattan in the mid 1920’s.  During prohibition the secretly brewed ale became widely popular, available at speakeasies and after spots.

Despite the rich history, it wasn’t until 1996 that Harlem Brewing Company brewmasters decided to once and for all capture the True Harlem Experience. Several versions of the golden ale survived, so in order to create the perfect combination, they immersed themselves in research which included trips Cooperstown, Europe and of course, Africa. It took a few years of trial and error to achieve the perfect balance of water, hops, barely and yeast, but alas, they could sit back and enjoy.

I visited a local bar to try Sugar Hill on tap and was pleasantly surprised to find it aromatic (but not fruity) and true to claimed description, very well balanced. It has a high malt flavor, is somewhat hoppy but very smooth. I can imagine drinking Sugar Hill with a burger and fries or seared sage sea scallops and butternut squash risotto. The versatility and balance make it a perfect feature ingredient in their website’s handful soul food-esque recipes. (See the “Community” tab for recipes.)  A kind brew representative informed me that the Harlem River Salmon and Sugar Hill Meatloaf are crowd pleasers, and the Sweet Thyme Chops will leave you singing for more.

My best intention was to follow this feature with a Sugar Hill recipe review. Excited for a culinary challenge, I browsed the website’s variety of vendors who stock Sugar Hill Golden Ale, one of which is Whole Foods in Union Square. I arrived there only to find out that they do not currently have Sugar Hill in stock and aren’t sure when it will be in. Apparently Sugar Hill’s distributor, Manhattan Beer Distributors failed to deliver 4 out of their last 5 orders. Curious, I shopped around to see how the rest of Manhattan’s listed carriers were faring. Jubilee Market (John Street or Broadway locations) has not been able to get an order of Sugar Hill neither has 1st Ave Grocery and Deli or Associated (Gramercy or Village locations).  After further inquiry to the distributor dilemma at New Beer, the Lower East Side’s most extensive beer retailer, I learned that Pathmark most certainly has Sugar Hill. Unfortunately, I’m not thirsty enough to venture outside of my borough for beer until summertime, so I went home empty handed.

Moral of the story, Sugar Hill Golden Ale is delicious and the site’s savory recipes are likely equally as wonderful. The historic beverage is a kind cultural addition to a night at Blue Note or lunch at Danny Meyer’s Modern at MOMA. I found myself in ten-pin withdrawal, I’d drink a Sugar Hill while bowling at Harlem Lanes. It’s rich history makes for a great cocktail party conversation starter. But if you plan on serving it to guests or trying your hand at one of their soulful recipes, you may be in for a trip to Pathmark in the Bronx. Unless Manhattan Beer Distributors, who could not be reached for comment, get their act together. Then, we’re golden.